June 26, 2017 

Respecterre: Ecological, Ethical, and Local Fashion

Charles Marceau-Cotton – Member of Cité Écologique since 2015

Until quite recently, the world of fashion and clothing was a topic I knew very little about. I’ve never been one to follow the latest trends or fill my wardrobe with new pieces.

But when I arrived at the Cité Écologique ecovillage a year and a half ago, I discovered Respecterre—a company that designs and produces its own line of clothing (ecological, ethical, and locally made). That marked the beginning of a whole new world for me: garment manufacturing methods, fabric choices, working conditions, marketing strategies, and more. Since then, I’ve developed deep respect and admiration for this work.

Why does it appeal to me now when it never did before? Probably because, as I’ll explore throughout this article, the world of “fast fashion” (disposable fashion) is one of the most disturbing industries—both for workers and for the environment. At Respecterre, I’ve discovered a different way of doing things: using more natural fabrics and dyes, working with people who hold authentic values, and emphasizing the importance of local production.

Giving Workers a Voice

Aware of how crucial it is to raise awareness about the impact of our clothing choices—and the ecological, ethical, and local alternatives available—I had the idea to give Respecterre’s workers a platform. After all, they’re the ones best positioned to speak. So, over the coming weeks, I invite you to read their stories—each one unique and complementary.

But this week, I’ll keep you waiting just a little longer. I think it’s important to start with some context. What lies beneath the surface of disposable fashion? Why should we support other alternatives? What can a company like Respecterre offer us? How did this project begin, and who’s behind it? These are the questions I’ll try to explore with you in this article.

The Not-So-Fashionable Side of a Giant Industry

« More and more, we’re trying to uncover what’s behind the products we buy. Behind the company we’re dealing with, behind the brand image. Who made and designed the products? Where and how were they created? What values and lifestyles do they reflect?”
 —Ugo Dutil, Marketing and Sales Director at Respecterre

Few people fully realize it, but fast fashion leaves an indelible stain—on its workers and on our planet.

Inhumane Working Conditions

As globalization accelerated throughout the 20th century, major clothing brands sought to cut production costs. The solution, by the early 21st century, was to offshore manufacturing from the West to the East. But as we know, labor laws and standards in that part of the world are far less clear-cut. In recent years, numerous reports and documentaries have exposed the inhumane conditions in factories producing garments for major fashion brands. Whether it’s The True Cost, the web series Sweatshop, or the French investigative report Textile: Toxic Fashion from Mon envoyé spécial, all reveal harsh realities :

An Environmental Disaster

If textile workers are suffering, what about the environment? The consequences are just as severe. It starts with the fabric itself. We all check clothing labels to see what fibers are used—but do we really understand what that means? What if I told you that 60% of all textile fibers on Earth are synthetic? That means polyester, nylon, acrylic, and others are all petroleum-based—promoting a non-renewable and polluting resource.

You might say: “Okay, but many of my clothes say ‘100% cotton’—isn’t that a natural fiber?” Yes, but most cotton is grown using massive amounts of pesticides and insecticides, which deplete the soil and contaminate land and waterways. According to Équiterre’s Guide to Responsible Clothing, cotton accounts for 25% of all pesticide use worldwide! The World Health Organization (WHO) reports that “22,000 people die each year due to pesticide exposure from cotton farming.” Cotton is also extremely thirsty—producing just one kilogram requires 5,260 liters of water (source: Encyclo-ecolo). It’s often genetically modified (GMO), reinforcing the dominance of corporations like Monsanto. Its environmental footprint is heavy, making it a problematic choice. Thankfully, there are better natural fiber alternatives, which we’ll explore later.

If fabrics are part of the problem, so are the manufacturing processes. Chief among them: dyes. These often contain highly toxic substances, harmful to both industry workers and consumers. A 2012 Greenpeace study found that 63% of garments from major brands contained NPEs, PFOAs, or phthalates. These chemicals act as endocrine disruptors (causing infertility and hormonal disorders), and can also trigger allergic reactions, liver and kidney issues (the organs responsible for filtering toxins), and even cancer.

Finally, one last major ecological impact of outsourced clothing production: transportation. Our clothes travel thousands of kilometers before reaching us. In Quebec and Canada, we increasingly praise local food for reducing pollution and supporting local producers. But this mindset rarely extends to clothing.

Alternative Options

Faced with this human and ecological crisis, what paths can we take? Because you’ll agree with me: if a ship is sinking and there’s no lifeboat in sight, it’s hardly encouraging. People often say that buying is voting—and that it’s the most effective way to change the course of events. So how about we start supporting fashion companies that uphold values of ecology, ethics, and local production? In Canada, the supply of clothing that champions these values may not be as vast as in fast fashion, but I’ll share a few regional addresses at the end of this text.

Respecterre: Ecological, Ethical, and Locally Made Values

Today, I’ll preach to the choir and tell you about Respecterre. Founded in an ecovillage in 2007, it offers a line of clothing made from natural fibers: hemp, bamboo, Tencel (eucalyptus), linen, and organic cotton. These fibers, to varying degrees, are much more ecological than the conventional ones mentioned earlier. For more details on their characteristics, I invite you to read this article. The only synthetic component found in Respecterre’s products is spandex (elastane), which gives the fabric better stretch—making it adaptable to all body types!

Another defining feature of Respecterre is its commitment to local production. The company sources fabrics or threads from abroad, which are then woven and dyed in the region. All stages of garment creation happen in their countryside workshop. People from the ecovillage and surrounding area are involved—from design to retail and in-store sales, including fabric cutting, sewing, and advertising. This supports local employment—especially in rural areas—and reduces pollution from transportation.

Respecterre also champions ethical values. This starts with the working conditions of its members. Despite the competitiveness of the sector and the pressure of tight deadlines, tasks are varied, schedules are flexible and adapted, and the work atmosphere is friendly… not to mention the workplace itself, nestled in nature and filled with natural light! Respecterre also emphasizes customer relationships and transparency in its production methods. And all of this unfolds in an inspiring ecovillage setting.

The Origins of Respecterre

Before giving voice to the people who bring this company to life in the coming weeks, I think it’s important to share its origin story and evolution. It’s a fascinating journey, and understanding it helps us grasp the current context. It’s also a sustainable entrepreneurial model that highlights several key ideas :

A Matter of Survival

Respecterre was founded in 2007, but its roots go back to 1990. The ecovillage was in full development. Families had created the site with the primary goal of offering an alternative school for their children, and nearby job creation was prioritized so parents wouldn’t have to travel far and could be more involved in their children’s education. As the fledgling community struggled to make ends meet, the idea emerged to launch a sewing subcontracting business within the ecovillage. Thus was born the first clothing company at Cité Écologique: HIGHTEX S.E.N.C. (all workers were partners). At the time, there were five sewing businesses in the village of Ham-Nord, and the ecovillage’s company grew largely thanks to their help and expertise. In this way, nearly all the parents in the ecovillage learned to sew. The business grew quickly, offering over 80 jobs at its peak. Over the years, people sewed for Sears, La Senza, La Baie, RGR, Milton, Effigi, Avanti. Despite a few failed attempts to launch its own clothing line, HIGHTEX always produced for others—within the “disposable fashion” industry. It didn’t yet have an ecological mission; its focus was the survival of the ecovillage. Production took place in a repurposed barn (perhaps the most ecological aspect of HIGHTEX!) and in an old house expanded with additions and a corridor connecting the two. By 2003, still operating at full capacity, sewing in a barn was no longer viable. HIGHTEX built a new sewing workshop.

A Changing Global Context, A Need to Adapt

Unfortunately, this coincided with the outsourcing of textile jobs to Asia. The following years were tough: contracts dwindled, and prices dropped. In 2007, revenue was cut in half. Once again, the business had to pivot to avoid sinking. That’s when the second generation of the ecovillage—who also knew how to sew and had gradually joined the company—launched Respecterre S.E.N.C., with the goal of recreating jobs and no longer relying on external contracts (a form of self-determination). Market research revealed that an ecological clothing line focused on yoga could be a promising niche. The transition, however, was difficult and demanding: “Going from a subcontractor to a full-fledged manufacturer is a massive shift. From design to marketing, retail to wholesale, the new skills and challenges were endless!” explains Karen, head of production. Respecterre also took on another challenge: to be ecological and ethical—using natural fiber fabrics (organic cotton, hemp, bamboo, linen, Tencel) made in Canada, and certified non-toxic dyes. From the start, this was their survival strategy: find a specialized niche, offer citizens an alternative fashion concept, be local and ecological. That’s how Respecterre was born !

A Sustainable Way of Life

Since 2007, the company has overcome enormous challenges: gaining and losing contracts, retailer closures, managing its own website, training specialized garment workers. Today’s result—a green shift and a diverse clothing offering—is the fruit of many human efforts, driven by deeply held values: teamwork, employment for the ecovillage and municipality, ecology and ethics… in short, the importance of a sustainable lifestyle.

Giving Voice to Respecterre’s Members

So there you have it—a portrait of a fashion company that swims against the current. I’d say that beyond ecology, the thread running through this success story is the group of individuals behind it. That’s why, as I hinted earlier, I’d like to give them a voice. Over the coming weeks, I invite you to read the stories of various Respecterre employees on the Respecterre blog. Inspiring people with very different life journeys, yet united by shared human and ecological values—and a desire to go against the grain in today’s fast and disposable fashion world.